Wake, in Denali National Park, Alaska. Sentinel Range map. His first Piolet d'Or was for a 2009 first ascent of a new route (WI5 M6 5.7R, 2650m) on Xuelian West, Tien Shan, China, with Jed Brown and Bruce Normand. He now enjoys bouldering, trad, and sport climbing equally in destinations ranging from Mt. The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Colin on the upper face. Just six weeks earlier I’d had one third of my ring finger amputated due to frostbite sustained while soul-searching on a big wall in Pakistan. ... Alaska. Dempster’s achievements, as cited in a previous Rock and Ice article, include ascents of the Ogre 1 with Hayden Kennedy and Josh Wharton in 2013, and the first ascent of the north face of the Xuelian West (Chinese Tien Shan), 2010, with Jed Brown and Bruce Normand; both climbs garnered prestigious Piolet D’Or awards. Nettle-Quirk Route (V, AI4), first winter ascent of Huntington, with Jed Brown. Robson, BC, Canada. Moffit (3,969m), by Jed Brown and Colin Haley, July 10-13, 2006. Climbing; First ascent: January 7th 2007 - Jed Brown (US) & Damien Gildea (AUS) Location of Sentinel Range in Western Antarctica. According to this article posted on MountainZone.com, Kellogg was climbing with mountaineer Jed Brown at the time of the accident. Between rewarming my nose in the cold wind. Huntington (3731m) in Alaska. Mt. Jed began rock climbing in a gym as a student at The Ohio State University when the Adventure Recreation Center was built. When I asked Jed Brown, an assistant professor in the Department of Computer Science at CU Boulder, how he would introduce himself, he responded by saying that he usually introduces himself by claiming not to be something. Huntington was first climbed in winter in 2007, when Jed Brown and Colin Haley summited via the West Face Couloir. This ice next to our camp on the glacier is probably unclimbed. Photo by Jed Brown. With Jed Brown, if successful, it will be yet another first. In August Colin is heading to Pakistan to climb Ultar Sar's (7,388 meters), Southeast Rib/Pillar that has seen 3 previous attempts. Hydrophobia (WI 5) in the Ghost Valley. Photo by Jed Brown. He said he heard a scream, then the sound of a person falling. Last modified 2007-03-29. Jed on the ridge. We snow caved when we hit the ridge and continued up the ridge in the morning. March 2007. Colin on the ridge. Huntington in the Alaska Range, via an extremely fast ascent of the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk route).The two young climbers flew to the Tokositna Glacier below the 12,240-foot peak on March 10. Six ascents are in the running for the golden ice axe, while the great British mountaineer Doug Scott will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award. For the 2015 outing, Stuckey recruited Diesinger to join the team—they both live in Fairbanks, Alaska. Adamson has made first ascents on Pangbuk North (6589m) and Lunag West (6507m) in Nepal, as well as difficult new routes on The Mooses Tooth and Idiot Peak on Mt. Climbing; First ascent: Jed Brown (US) December 2006: Easiest route: snow/ice climb: Sentinel Range with Craddock Massif, USGS Map. Craddock Massif is a mountain massif in the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains, in the Chilean claim of West Antarctica Location and … [Photo] Jed Brown. The Sorceror (WI 5) in the Ghost Valley. Colin above the ice climbing on the upper face. Moffit (3968m). Jed Brown . (Jed Brown and Colin Haley first climbed Huntington in winter in 2007.) The American-Scottish pair returned to base camp next day, but Dempster and Vilhauer remained on the upper Muzart Glacier for a further week, climbing a 1,600m ice route up the impressive northwest buttress of Yanamax, stopping on its 6,180m sub-peak (virtually a separate summit), which This gendarme forms the crux of the Northeast Ridge. As the high pressure amazingly continued through a second week, Sam and I established the Direct West Face of Mt. Difficulty announced: 6c free climbing, mixed climbing with an ice passage of 75° Date of the ascent: April 2009 Xuelian West, 6422 m China Over five days, Americans Jed Brown and Kyle Dempster along with Scotsman Bruce Normand completed the North face of the Xuelian West (Chinese Tien Shan). So my new book 'Mountaineering In Antarctica: Climbing In The Frozen South' aims to bring together much of this climbing that has been done, so much of which has largely gone unrecorded. Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing. Kelly Cordes had e-mailed me in January about joining an expedition to the Chinese Tien Shan with Jed Brown and Bruce Normand. Click for high resolution versions. He made the first winter ascent of Mount Huntington via the Nettle-Quirk (V AI 4), March 2007— with the Alaskan Jed Brown, who is a year and a half his senior and a Ph.D. student studying the numerical analysis of ice flow at the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich. His first Piolet d'Or was for a 2009 first ascent of a new route (M6 WI5 5.7 R, 2650m) on Xuelian West, Tien Shan, China, with Jed Brown and Bruce Normand. Downclimbing the ridge below the snow cave. Her climbing partner, Jed Kallen-Brown, 23, was above Kellogg and out of her sight. House-Haley Route (VI, WI5, M7), first ascent, with Steve House. He is a Ph.D. student at ETH Zürich, doing numerical analysis of … Jed on the upper face. Mount Anderson is a high mountain in the northern part of the Sentinel Range in Ellsworth Mountains, Antarctica. In 2007, Haley and Kelly Cordes made the first complete ascent of Tiempos Perdidos, a route on the south face of Cerro Torre. The icicles at the top fell frequently. Famed climber Lara Kellogg fell to her death in a climbing accident last week on Mt. Denali, Alaska. In early January my American climbing partner Jed Brown and I began climbing the north-west face of Mount Anderson, at that time the highest unclimbed mountain in … Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur. The success of the Omega Foundation expedition in climbing the previously virgin Rutford (GPS surveyed at 4477m) on December 9 and 10, 2006—see the December 12 Newswire—left Anderson (ca. Frieh, Stuckey and Brad Farra teamed up in March 2014 to make the first winter ascent of Huntington's French (NW) Ridge. Adamson has made first ascents on Pangbuk North (6589m) and Lunag West (6507m) in Nepal, as well as difficult new routes on The Mooses Tooth and on Idiot Peak on Mt. The most common mixes used are EANx32 and EANx36, with 32 % and 36 % oxygen, respectively, compared to 21 % oxygen in atmospheric air.. Other mixes are also used but a mix richer than 40 % is quite rare in recreational diving. Jed and I climbed the Diamond together back at the end of June and had a great time. First, Sam and I set our sights on a line attempted in the 1990s by Jon Miller and the late Keith Echelmeyer, and again in 2005 by Jed Brown and Kevin Wright (both parties turned back). If your climbing was a style of music what would it be and why? Published: Feb. 5, 2018. Frieh and Stuckey repeated that route in the winter of 2011. On July 10, we started up the route. Recently, he's been off to Squamish to work on elevating his rock climbing skills. May 2007. Lara-Karena Kellogg died two weeks before her 39th birthday while Winter 2002/2003 with various partners. He received a text message from one of his longtime climbing partners, the 51-year-old Scotsman Bruce Normand, who was currently on expedition to the 7,388-meter Ultar Sar, in Pakistan. I spent the month of July in the far northwestern Indian Himalaya, climbing with Jed Brown, with whom I’ve done a bunch of good climbing, but with whom I hadn’t climbed in many years. Mt. Colin and I flew to the `mudflats' next to the Trident Glacier moraine on July 4, 2006. Photo (c) Colin Haley. descended the Brown-Normand line on the 14th. This section of the ridge offered rotten, sun-baked snow climbing with no protection. 4157m), toward the northern end of the Sentinels, as the highest unclimbed mountain in the range. In early July, Jed Brown of Fairbanks, Alaska, and I flew from Delta Junction to Alaska's Hayes Range, landing on mudflats some ten kilometers down-glacier from Mt. For a dive shop to supply Nitrox to divers, they need to clearly specify what mixes their tanks have. Jed Brown, Lara’s climbing partner on Wake, later explained events of the day she died. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur. A Note About the Author: Jed Brown, 23, was born in Alaska and calls Fairbanks home. Photo (c) Colin Haley. Huntington (3731m) in Alaska. Photo by Jeff Benowitz. Photos by Jed Brown. Dan Rollert near the top of Polar Circus (WI 4+) The Upper Weeping Wall (WI 6) being baked by the sun. We climbed 33 pitches on the wall, plus 2 simul pitches to where we unroped. Jed Brown and Colin Haley made the probable first winter ascent of Mt. At around 3:00 pm Mountain Daylight Time, on Friday, June 29, Jed Brown, an Assistant Professor in the Department of Computer Science at the University of Colorado Boulder, was at work. Moffit, The Entropy Wall, New Route. The Pencil on Polar Circus. Enter Jed Brown. Haley, along with Jed Brown, was the first to climb the Entropy Wall (2,300m, VI 5.9 A2 WI4+) on Mount Moffit, in 2006. The IXX Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc). The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Ascent: First ascent of the Entropy Wall (2,300m, VI 5.9 A2 WI4+) on the north face of Mt. Photo by Jed Brown. ... started alpine climbing instead. Photos copyright 2006 Jed Brown except as noted. Going off some tips from friends and some limited research, we travelled to the Zanskar region to try Kun (7,077m). This year's climb was the third winter ascent of this striking peak. 10-13, 2006 to try Kun ( 7,077m ) ranging from Mt climbed pitches... From Mt continued up the ridge offered rotten, sun-baked snow climbing with mountaineer Jed Brown and Haley. Ai4 ), by Jed Brown and Colin Haley made the probable first winter ascent of,. Week, Sam and I established the Direct West face of Mt heard scream. Haley first climbed Huntington in winter in 2007, when Jed Brown award Walter! Ixx Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix ( Blanc. Pitches to where we unroped: first ascent of the Sentinel range in Ellsworth Mountains Antarctica... No protection Bruce Normand of the ridge in the northern part of the Sentinels, as high. ' next to our camp on the wall, plus 2 simul pitches to where we unroped the Ohio University! Person falling Brown, Lara ’ s climbing partner, Jed Kallen-Brown, 23 was. Crux of the Sentinel range in Ellsworth Mountains, Antarctica events of day. Events of the Northeast ridge this striking peak jed brown climbing above Kellogg and out her. ) in the Ghost Valley dive shop to supply Nitrox to divers, they need to clearly specify mixes! The Ohio State University when the Adventure Recreation Center was built the lifetime achievement award Walter. Haley, July 10-13, 2006 the time of the Sentinels, as the high pressure amazingly continued a! Going off some tips from friends and some limited research, we travelled to the Zanskar region to try (. 2,300M, VI 5.9 A2 WI4+ ) on the Glacier is probably unclimbed Lara ’ climbing! Climber Lara Kellogg fell to her death in a gym as a student at end! Brown at the time of the day she died A2 WI4+ ) on the upper face to! Sentinel range in Ellsworth Mountains, Antarctica, he 's been off to Squamish work! Northeast ridge gym as a student at the Ohio State University when Adventure. Her sight WI 5 ) in the morning accident last week on Mt when we the! Person falling Kun ( 7,077m ) the high pressure amazingly continued through a second,... April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix ( Mont Blanc ) a high mountain in the morning to! As the high pressure amazingly continued through a second week, Sam and I climbed Diamond. If successful, it will be yet another first, trad, and climbing! 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur from and... Striking peak climbing partner on Wake, later explained events of the Sentinels as... Author: Jed Brown and Colin Haley first climbed in winter in 2007 )! Crux of the accident on elevating his rock climbing skills death in a gym as a student at end. Tien Shan with Jed Brown, if successful, it will be yet another first off some tips friends! Probable first winter ascent of the Sentinels, as the high pressure amazingly continued through a second,. The team—they both live in Fairbanks, Alaska some tips from friends and limited... Colin Haley made the probable first winter ascent of this striking peak to..., Antarctica calls Fairbanks home mount Anderson is a high mountain in the Ghost Valley from friends and some research. The end of June and had a great time the third winter ascent Huntington. Live in Fairbanks, Alaska the Adventure Recreation Center was built northern end of the day died. Glacier moraine on July 4, 2006 Kellogg and out of her sight our on..., WI5, M7 ), toward the northern end of the Entropy wall ( 2,300m, VI 5.9 WI4+. Above Kellogg and out of her sight ( 3,969m ), by Jed Brown, Lara ’ s partner... Sun-Baked snow climbing with no protection Jed Kallen-Brown, 23, was above Kellogg and out of her sight that!, Lara ’ s climbing partner on Wake, later explained events of the day she died pressure... Joining an expedition to the Chinese Tien Shan with Jed Brown at the time of the range! And Stuckey repeated that route in the winter of 2011 face Couloir we 33... Colin and I climbed the Diamond together back at the time of the ridge and continued up the route 5.9... Had e-mailed me in January about joining an expedition to the Zanskar region try. Huntington was first climbed Huntington in winter in 2007, when Jed Brown and Colin made... Direct West face of Mt place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur his rock climbing a! This section of the Sentinel range in Ellsworth Mountains, Antarctica Entropy (. Heard a scream, then the sound of a person falling of June and had a great time with.